Wednesday, July 22, 2009

I'm off!

Packed and ready! No, seriously, can you believe it? I sort of can't. But alas I have a big green sack weighing in at a not-so-light-after-all 30lbs, packed and prepared with everything I'll need to survive. As if I were going into the deserted wilderness or something.

I found this website yesterday that gives a virtual map of the terrain on the way to Castrojeriz. I will be walking leg 13 of the Camino de Santiago (Compostelle de St. Jacques, Way of St. James - whatever!) which is consequently one of the longer legs of this part of the trail, clocking in at 29 miles. It's reported to have a whole lot of wind which I am preparing for by giving myself the option to take the bus back to Burgos should I feel so inclined. It is, after all, my vacation.

I am bringing my journal, some good books (in French!) and my obligatory reading on St. James, because he's the real reason I can make this trip hiking and camping like I can. The Spanish leg of the pilgrimage actually takes a good four weeks, but since its incarnation people have come from as far as Poland and North Africa to this point of Spain, just to see the Miraculous tomb of St. James. (Read about the Way of St. James on my best friend Wiki.)

Me, I'll be wimping out and doing two days, but I am certain it'll be equally moving and spiritual for me, if I look for it. Pictures I promise.

See you in ten days!

Photos Before More Photos

I did promise photos of my last weekend and they are finally on my computer. Before I head of to take another 400 photos, I thought I best share the last ones with you. As I said, it was a lovely weekend. Fun and romantic and intellectually stimulating. The longevity of the Medieval architecture never ceases to amaze me. I can understand why my mom got a master's degree in the period, and I constantly wish she was here to see it first hand.

Right, the photos.

le petite maison รก Lingreville. Merci Marie et Pascal!

Moule Frites!

I made a cake for Toad's upcoming Birthday.

Even though it was too cold to swim, it was good to be on the beach, by the ocean.


Rillette AND pate. Not for the vegetarians...

On Sunday we drove to St. Malo...

Which was impossibly charming.


The old fortress was once inhabited by pirates! ARG!


The Ramparts


At low tide we wandered to one of the neighboring islands.

And then to St. Michel! This is the view from our hotel! No kidding!

I fell in love with this little chapel.



And the light was magnificent.

The Abby at night. This guy is playing Harpsicord.

Photo by the Toad himself. He wouldn't let me have the camera that night.

But I didn't mind.




Anatomically correct statue of a lion. Yes! I'm 12!

And the balls the kicked my ass. Petonque!

Right after Petonque we got got in a crazy downpour. We were soaked to the bone!

We ended the weekend by enjoying watching the Bastille Day fireworks on the Eiffel Tower. It was perfect, if I may say. One for the books, at least.

Monday, July 20, 2009

Dear Vacation, I Heart You

With barely enough time to unpack and wash my clothes from the last long weekend, I have finally arranged my plans for Spain. In my classic style I left things till the last minute and so have had to move my dates forward a little so that I could afford things as planned. Now instead of leaving on Saturday of this week I will be leaving on Wednesday which gives me a few more days in Spain but less time to get things together. Yes, I am scrambling a little. But do you know what I woke up this morning most concerned about? My tan line. Oh yes.

I thought of how nicely and evenly I could tan my shoulders if only I bought a few tube tops. Oh wouldn't that be nice? And then I realized that my enormous hiking sack would probably be the first thing to disrupt my even bronzing and so switched back to my plan of packing all my tank tops. Funny tan lines here I come.

And so on Wednesday I'll depart for Barcelona, jump straight from the plane to the train to Burgos. At six a.m. I'll arrive and head out on the Compostelle for day one of the trail.

I am really excited to see the countryside, it's true. To go to the place my mother has created a fictional world around and see it in reality, for her. I'm looking forward to being alone with my thoughts, to praying, meditating, and exercising my body and emptying my head. And I am also looking forward to the treat I have allowed myself, at the very end - a classy hotel with clean clean sheets and a jacuzzi on the rooftop.


Because I may be roughing it for the first eight days, but little sister is coming home in style. Maybe I'll try and fix my tan while I'm up there.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Did I Forget to Mention That I Went On Vacation?

Hmmmm, yes sorry to have let that escaped from my attention. Toad and I met some friends at the Normand beach in Lingreville, followed by a side trip to St. Malo and Mont St. Michel for his birthday. I am back in Paris now with another three or four hundred photos to sort through.






We made it back in time to watch the fireworks explode at the Eiffel Tower for Bastille Day. All in all it was a perfect weekend, of which I promise to share with you the best parts.

But for right now I am sort of enjoying being missing from the radar, hiding out, sleeping, writing, and benefiting from the petite moments of a vacation. I'll be back soon. I swear.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

In Case You Were Wondering

I had a lovely birthday. Everyone who said they were going to come did.




There was guitar playing and singing by the talented young Brothers Garnier.


We won't talk about how badly I botched the bit where I tried singing.


I had cake.


The park was amazingly lovely and the sun was delightfully warm. All in all it was a magical day.


Toady bought me the cutest shoes ON THE PLANET (which I might wear all the time, ahem)


and my a bottle of one of my favorite perfumes


(the other is this one, but it's ridiculously expensive to ship to France, oh the irony) not to mention simply being a wonderful dreamy man who drove a very drunk me home on Sunday night. I heart you Toady!


Yesterday HD gave me two CD's - one a collection of classic French music (Gainsbourg, Bressens, Piaf, etc) and the other being Calogero.


Everyday in the metro I passed this giant image and even though I didn't know who the artist was I decided that I would probably love it. (And I do.)

The utterly passionate look on his face as he holds that woman makes me swoon. Every. Single. Time. If I ever run into him on the streets I might just ask him to hold me like that. Don't worry Toad, it won't last - those things with musicians rarely do!

In addition to swoon worthy photogenics (I'm not entirely convinced he's hot in real life) Calogero has one of those "I play every instrument known to man. And some that aren't." things going for him. The songs are well orchestrated and complex and his voice is strong and soulful. I highly recommend.

And now that the party is over I must get on to the important things in life like vacation. Oh right, deadline first. Wish me luck, because I'm dead on my feet today. But I should be used to that by now.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Happy Independence Day!!!

This is the first year I've ever celebrated the 4th of July outside of the Great U.S. of A.. It's been a huge celebration for me each year as my birthday comes just after on the 5th. Seven million years ago my mother missed one of these for me, going into the hospital late that night and giving birth to me at 9 a.m. the following morning. How come we don't celebrate our mothers on our birthday?

Sometime in my youth I realized that nobody wants to party on the 5th (because they're all partied out from the 4th) and since then have combined my birthday with the Nation's. It's partly out of convenience and partly out of vanity because it's damn cool to pretend that the whole country is celebrating your birthday.

When my mom was married to my stepfather he used to go wacky, ordering 600 dollars worth of illegal fireworks from Utah. Illegal, in Colorado, meant "anything that went up in the air and went 'boom'". Once we drove six hours to Wyoming as a family but after twelve hours straight in the car together my mom said never again. I think she hoped to calm his crazy, but that didn't stop him. The fourth was an ordeal.

For him it was never about me, but I enjoyed his celebrations just the same. He invited the entire neighborhood and I invited all my friends. The lawn became a stadium and the long 1970's coffee table in the living room became a staging ground for the evenings display - the illegal's hidden neatly in a box underneath and the legal masking them on top. The kitchen was a buffet. A 10 gallon trash can was filled with water to dispose of hot sulfurous projectiles.

We had everything you could think of buying. Snap pops, black cats, ground worms, tanks and sparklers for the kids, usually reserved for before the darkness fell; Fountains, bottle rockets, roman candles, and pin wheels which were displayed on a board mounted at the end on the lawn. These were often the item of danger, sometimes spinning off the board into the yard, and once attracting the dangerous high of someone's hippy friend Bachtah who thought dancing in front of them would be a pleasure to all of us. That year the cops came into our yard for a stern talking to about fireworks safety.

But it was always the mortars, the chinese spectacle of goodness, that made my heart soar. My stepdad reserved a few for the end of the night, simulating a grand finale. His usually didn't go far enough into the air for some reason, raining down hot sparks onto houses and neighboring yards. He would choose his favorites - the ones that explode into several rainbow colors and then disappeared. The bigger the better.

My favorites were the ones that looked like a weeping willow. They burst into shimmering white drops and dissipated slowly, drooping down toward the earth like a lazy tree being blown in the wind. They left dim sparkles in the sky as they faded, backdrop of shadowy clouds framing them, crackling at the very end. They made a soft "poof", as opposed to the "bang" my stepfather loved so much. These feu d'artifice, as they are called in French, made me smile every time.

In my adolescence, for some reason, I attached a great deal of romanticism to the 4th of July. On the 3rd, when we would drive our clunky old vehicles up the monument and watch the real fireworks display, put on by the fire department (barring the event of a drought and fire hazard), I would lay wrapped in blankets on the roof wishing I was in someones arms. The local country radio station would play "I'm Proud to Be An American" at each years finale and my eyes would tear up. I never could put my finger on why this day - among all the other special days of the year - was so important for me to feel loved.

By now that feeling has faded, but I refuse to spend the holiday alone. To me it will always be a celebration - one for my country, one for my mother, one for me - and I am happy to distract myself with all manner of party planning and cake baking and making the day special. This year I will not see fireworks on my birthday, but my heart is not heavy for that. I miss my family terribly - my beautiful nieces and nephew running wild in the hot sun, huddled exhausted in their parents arms come the actual display; my mom, buzzing in the kitchen and out into the yard, hosting always hosting. We were never for want of anything in her care.

I've spent this week in a haze of work. It's a foreign feeling these days, to be doing something with a real sense of purpose, and I'm not yet used to it. If it weren't the 4th I would work through the weekend, late into the nights. This important holiday can't be put on hold though (the work will be there when I get back). I've organized a weekend of simple pleasures with the people who stand currently as my Paris family. Light shopping with Toady today, followed by dinner at le Petit Prince and drinks with the girls at Mama Shelter. Tomorrow a skirt to sew in warm chocolate satin, and then a day at the park eating and drinking and enjoying the most beautiful park in Paris.

No fireworks. Just love. To me that is a fair trade.